Nine and 1/2 Days

Wednesday night is movie night...so we go to see “Alicia en el pais de las maravillas” (aka “Alice in Wonderland”) in 3D and then do dinner at a traditional parrilla (grillhouse) with Rick and Kirk (standing 2 steps down - he's really not that short at all!).

Lots of meats, chickens, and sausages on the grill sizzling away, though the salad bar is the big hit for us all. I'm actually feeling vegetable-deprived...with the exception of potatoes, pumpkin squash, and lettuce/tomato salads, vegetables typically aren't served with an entree or as a side dish.

Thursday is quiet but, on Friday, we have breakfast with Claire and George, who are visiting from the states and just back from Neuquen, Argentina, just 40 or so miles from Concepcion, Chile...

and hear, first hand, how it felt to be close to the epicenter of Chile's earthquake. We didn't feel a thing here in BA, but aren't sure whether it's because it occurred at 3:30 a.m. and we slept through it or because the city wasn't affected...we've heard both stories.

Later that day, we go to the Palacio Errazuriz, the only early 20th century French-style mansion open to the public.

But we don't take a tour...oh no, no, no...instead we dine al fresco at the mansion's restaurant with Julie, Bob, Bettye, and Michael.

On Saturday, we walk over to the Marriott to welcome our friends Nelson and Brian, who've just arrived from the states for a week long stay.

On the way, we pass another of those statues that cause us to take notice...this time, a replica of Michaelangelo's “Pieta”...

as well as “tamale art”...(we photograph pretty much anything that catches our eye).

We spend part of the day and that evening with them and then, on Sunday, we all go to San Telmo, where we walk around the Plaza Dorrego...arts and crafts, tango singers and street performers galore. We browse in antique stores, nibble on filo dough and honey pastries,

and then go for lunch to El Hippopotamus …

(see the hippo on the left?).

Next we bus over to La Boca, where we “view” the works of “aspiring artists”...

and I catch David fraternizing with the local gnome.

On Monday, some of us go to the Palacio San Martin which, we were told only a week ago, gives English-speaking tours on Mondays and Wednesdays. But that was then...and this is now! We've learned that this weeks' tours have been canceled. Why? We don't know. But that's OK. We're flexible and, if I can't get photos of the Palacio's interior, Julie in the Sofitel ladies room will have to do.

Later that evening, David is feeling a little “off” and, by Tuesday, has a fever and sounds pretty awful. So, after I have lunch with Nelson and Brian, the 3 of us go to Farmacity (BA's version of CVS) and buy “proper drugs” for David. In retrospect, we've been really fortunate. In all of our stays here, this is the first time either of us has been sick. And since antibiotics are sold over the counter here, within 24 hours, the drugs have kicked in, his fever has broken, and a bunch of us go to lunch...

Then, David and I go back to the optical store to pick up my new glasses. Sabrina is there, thankfully, to help with the final fitting. Even though she doesn't speak any English, she's been a big help throughout the multi-visit process.  And once David finalizes the deal (all in Spanish!), we're off and running.

Great...except that by that evening, I'm sick too! No socializing for me until Friday, which is Brian and Nelson's last night here...so we make it Paella Night!

It's back again to San Telmo, where we eat Spanish style...in a restaurant with lots of old-world charm, really good food and enough wine to take us through multiple courses.

And that's the story...until Sunday, when we go to Uruguay, so stay tuned!

Expect the Unexpected

Life is easy, except when it's not. And some things are made just a little more difficult when the task must be done almost exclusively in Spanish.

Take, for instance, the purchase and activation of a new quad band GSM  international phone. David, with some help from friends, spent hours figuring out how to add minutes, change the ring, retrieve messages, with all the items in Spanish.  After all that, he finally figured out how to change the menu from Spanish to English! And he's passed this information on to Julie, who's had similar frustrations. Here we are, with Bob, celebrating “phone victory” at one of the outdoor cafes we've started going to now that the weather is perfect!

When it comes to the unexpected, we've had a bit of good luck. Last week, for example, Argentina's President Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner (CFK) kicked off this year's Congress with a very lengthy speech. We happened to be leaving a cafe on one of the busier streets soon after she finished speaking and there, with perfect timing, was a procession of soldiers on horseback, which David was able to capture on camera.


















A few days later, we walked by the Palais de Glace. Just a few blocks from our apartment, we frequently pass by, but this time decided to go inside. We thought Palais de Glace meant museum of glass but, actually, it means “ice palace” or, for those in the know, “ice skating rink,” which is what it was when it opened in 1910. A grand circular structure, it became a tango salon at some point and now, in its most recent iteration, houses rotating (and very eclectic) art collections.

like Shadow Box Marionettes...


















Tie Haute Couture....























Wood Blocks and etchings, like this “Van Gogh Visiting Van Gogh”...

And, oh look, there's David with a friend!

We've continued to celebrate the fabulous weather by eating outdoors every chance we get. And, yet again, we've joined Julie and Bob for lunch. Along with Jim, we walked down Avenida San Martin, past not-so-understated courtyards...

some with surprises,























(look – it's Winged Victory, on vacation from the Louvre!), on the way to restaurante El Claustro Santa Catalina. The first thing you see is the church of Santa Maria...

and to the left is an unassuming wall and doorway. But once through, we're in a courtyard restaurant that was once the grounds of the church's convent.

After an amazing meal,

we walk to the Centro Cultural Borges, a gallery that's part of the Galerias Pacifico, a shopping mall located in one of the city's many, many turn-of-the-century buildings, of course!

We're there to see a photo exhibit by National Geographic photojournalist Steve McCurry that spans 25+ years of his works...you may recognize his 1985 cover photo “Afghan Girl”...

The exhibit doesn't disappoint. Nor does the store window that I look forward to seeing every year. If you've followed our blog since it started, you'll recognize these 3 ladies.

Our apartment is around the corner from this store and, for some reason, every year I feel compelled to photograph them. They never change their pose...only their gowns.

And, after David has his daily Spanglish conversation with Leo, our building's afternoon doorman.  Leo's trying to learn English and David practices Spanish (which Leo enthusiastically corrects).

we start cooking for guests Gaby and Pablo, who come over for dinner.

Yes – we actually prepared a meal. And ate at home. Wow – a big deal (for us)!

More to come soon.

Hay Tormenta! (It's Stormy!)

Hay tormentas!


A week of sunshine...a week of rain. That's been the pattern since we arrived. The week of the 15th we had showers and thunderstorms (tormentas) that sometimes lasted all day (it's been the rainiest February on record in 150 years). David keeps reminding me that it's better than snow!

It rained so hard and for so long that some neighborhoods experienced major flooding. We were glued to the TV, watching people wade through knee-deep water while holding on to ropes strong between sidewalks. Street lights were out and stalled cars littered the road. Water seeped into ground floor apartments, restaurants and stores, and zodiacs were used to "rescue" stranded people. What a mess!

Given the foul weather, we spent less time outside then we'd have liked. But, in spite of the rain, we certainly had some good times. Early in the week, we had dinner with Jim, Linda and Carlos...check out the desserts – dulce de leche panqueques (crepes) and lava cake brownies with ice cream.

We really don't eat desserts like this too often (though a new bakery just opened around the corner from our apartment – wonderful chocolate and almond croissants – very French).

Linda is an American photographer/artist here on a grant, and Jim and I took the bus to the studio she is working in to watch her and 2 master print makers design and executive one of her new prints.

At this point, I have to mention my aversion to the buses here...and there are many on the streets, particularly during the day.

When they turn a corner, they can be very close to the curb. And they sometimes turn corners so quickly that I expect to see wheels off the pavement (think “Speed”). After a close encounter with one our first week here, I'm particularly cautious when I cross the street. But I didn't realize how “dangerous” they can be when you're inside one, especially if you're distracted while reading a map and happen to have your leg where it shouldn't be...in back of the rear door as it snaps open to let passengers off...ouch.

On a happier note...we're having some really fun times with Julie and Bob, who we know from last year...

And they've introduced us to some of their friends, like Bettye (and Michael), Bonnie, and Patricia...

There is never a shortage of dining buddies... for lunches (here we are with our friend Angela at "Dada")...

for dinners or, as it turns out, breakfast. On the mornings we go to the gym, I eat breakfast at home. David, on the other hand, goes to the Melody Cafe, where he met Ron, and they've caught up with each other on several occasions.

He and I also met Vicki for the first time, more than 20 years after he first became acquainted with Vicki and her husband Paul.

They wrote a book in the early 80's, which greatly influenced David (and as a result me) and our lives. I will let David tell the story, as it is, first and foremost, his...

Barbara has told you most of the story....I read Paul and Vicki's book when it first came out and had an epiphany, which took me (us) another 25 years to actually employ. Sorry guys...I must be a slow learner!

Shortly before we decided to come to Buenos Aires for the first time, I ran across an article following up on Paul and Vicki's whereabouts. I hadn't been aware of them since I had put the book down in 1982. Believe it or not, they had settled in Argentina and not more than a couple of hours from BA. Given their constant travel schedule, it's been almost 3 years since I e-mailed them and arranged to meet Vicki in BA.

Either persistence was paying off or Vicki read enough of our blog to know I was not a crazy stalker! Never the less, we met Vicki at the wonderfully restored Retiro Cafe (at the Retiro train station)















and had a great time chatting over coffee and medialunas. Due to all of our travel schedules, we get to meet Paul next year, as we now have been properly "screened"!
Now back to Barbara....

To end off the week, I decided it was time to buy a new pair of glasses. Our friend Kevin, who speaks Spanish extremely well, came with us...to help translate, but also to give a third opinion. As all of you who wear glasses know, once they come off, you can't really see. But after an eye exam...

here I am, with Kevin and Sabrina (my optical person) with the new frames, which will be ready on March 15th.

More to come soon.....

2010 Blog Post #3 Palermo - Valentines Day - and More

Palermo Revisited

After all the rain, it's back to clear skies and hot temps. Palermo, a trendy area with more than it's share of restaurants and shops, is about 20 minutes from the Recoleta. While it gets all the write-ups in the travel magazines and the NY Times, it's not a neighborhood we would want to live in...rather plain architecture, broken sidewalks, a lot of graffiti (some of it art?)...

and more than it's share of dog poop. We find it rather drab during the day...but it comes alive at night...very Vegas. And while we hardly ever go there, this past week we went 3 times.

On Tuesday, we decided to go to the zoo. But, once there, we realized it was way too hot out for people and animals and, besides, with summer vacation, the grounds were teaming with kids. So, instead, we spent the afternoon window shopping...with the exception of this store, where I tried on shoes while David and shopkeeper Marianna had a very lengthy conversation which included an exchange of restaurant recommendations. He's such a porteno!

The next evening we went back to Palermo for a fish dinner (what...no beef?) with Kevin, Kirk and Rick.

And, to round out the week, we made our annual trek to Palermo's Mercado de las Pulgas (Flea Market), where I, as always, drooled over the chandeliers while David wandered aimlessly, bored beyond belief.

On Thursday, we had a great time with Karen (who I've known for 20 years) and her husband Gary. From Boston, here on business, they were able to get away for an afternoon. After a leisurely lunch...

we walked down the Avenida Callao...

checked out the grand hotels and old mansions on the Avenida Alvear, including the courtyard of the Hyatt Duhau...

and the 1916 French style Mansion,

part of the Four Seasons Hotel, with its restored frescoes, gold leaf, stained glass, and grand foyer.

February 14th...Valentines Day – I'm happy to report that it's a Hallmark holiday in Buenos Aires too. Flower kiosks...

heart-shaped boxes of candy, restaurants advertising “special” dinners advertised everywhere.

But we're excited just to spend the day in the park. So we pack up our new lawn chairs, books, and iPods and head over to Vincente Lopez Parque to soak up some sun and relax. But, alas, it's not meant to be. Because of all the rain we had last week, there are swarms of mosquitoes everywhere.

Since we always have alternatives, we spend the afternoon walking around Puerto Madero, BA's port area. We've been there before, so no photos are necessary...but we find a whole new area to explore on our way back to our apartment. After crossing Av. Corrientes and Florida, we take a detour to Plaza Lavalle, where we photograph the Teatro Colon.

The opera house has been under renovations for at least the 3 years that we've been coming to BA, if not longer! The grand “reopening” is scheduled for the end of May...we'll see!

In the same general area, we also check out the very stately Palace of Justice...

and a small park with a fountain and statuary...



that looks more like it belongs in Santa Fe, NM than in Buenos Aires, where the fountains and statues are usually on the grand side, like this one in the Plaza Carlos Pelligrini.

And to end the evening, we have a “romantic” dinner of cheese and crackers (we had a really big lunch) while watching TV.